Dear Homework

Dear HomeWork:

Some of the suppliers and businesses have changed over the past 15 years, but remarkably, many are still doing business in the Big Bear Valley. Dear Homework was written back in 1995, and it is interesting how much remains the same. This was written by Publisher Barbara Scharnhorst, and General Contractor Al Scharnhorst, Foothill Builders Home Improvement Company.

Our log home here in the Big Bear Valley has a metal roof. During a recent snow melt, the snow slid and broke off one of the vent pipes. How do we go about getting it fixed?

• Metal roofs are a natural for the Big Bear Valley, but we are still in our infancy when it comes to utilizing the product in residential situations. You'll see the product atop Big Bear schools, the Sugarloaf firestation, but still rarely on Big Bear homes. The advantages of metal roofing are great, and according to Bob Holcomb, Roofing Sales Coordinator for VicWest Steel, one of North America's largest metal roofing manufacturers, "the popularity of metal roofing is growing each year."
" Metal roofs are environmentally safe and sound, and supported by the EPA," he adds. Virtually mainte¬nance free, they can be applied to any roof configuration, and come in a wide variety of colors."
Since residential applications are so popular in similar snow climate areas like Bend, Oregon and Aspen, Colorado to name two, experts pre¬dict Big Bear will also see an increase in metal roofing. Holcomb goes so far as to say it may very well become "the roof of choice for Big Bear," in the not so distant future.
Your problem, (losing your vent pipe), is one of the disadvantages we've discovered. An experienced roofing contractor can climb on the roof for repairs, as long as they posi¬tion their weight on the areas secured by screws - the ribs, and strongest areas of the roof.
To avoid future problems, there are several options. BIG BEAR SHEET METAL suggests creating a "snow plow", a V-Shaped heavy gauge metal, that is placed above the vent pipe, to help guide snow and water around piping. Depending on the position of your vent pipe, this may solve future problems.
VicWest Steel manufactures a special vinyl guard, with a rubber flanged bottom, that is positioned around vent and stove pipes, caulked and screwed directly to the roof, designed to hold pipes in place and water and snow out.
Check with your specific metal roof manufacturer, and they will probably have a similar system to coordinate with your brand of metal roof.

Dear Home Work:

When we have heavy snows, our roof doesn't totally melt, and an ice dam forms in two areas. Now we are getting leaks through the ceil¬ing. How do we fix this?

Ice dams are caused when heat from the house begins warming the bottom of the snow on the roof. The melting snow runs down the house, until it reaches an area that doesn't receive any heat - like a porch, over¬hang, or eaves. That snow remains frozen, and the melting snow gath¬ers, refreezes, and creates an ice dam.
The melt behind the ice dam backs up until the water finds a way through the shingles, tar paper, sheathing, insulation and drywall. It's not long before cold water begins dripping through the ceiling, and you have a major mess, with major potential damage.
Prevention, of course, is always the most successful way of avoiding ice dams. Good design in snow areas (no flat roofs, steeper angles), prevents the problem. You want the snow to run off the roof, not stay there. Metal roofs are virtually maintenance free from this type of problem.
If it's time to re-roof, and you choose shingles, have your roofer install a rubberized membrane ice and water shield before the shingles go down, on the effected areas. Use this rubberized membrane in all the valleys of the roof as well.
Short of re-roofing, there are sev¬eral options to consider. Make sure the attic (or rafter space if it's a cathedral ceiling) has enough insula¬tion for Big Bear. Ventilate the attic properly. (We've noticed many properties in Big Bear do not venti¬late the attic, but instead try to keep the warm attic, air tight. This may be a trade-off you need to consider). Insulation and ventilation will keep the heat away from the roof and pre¬vent the snow from melting - and in many cases alleviate the ice dam problem.
Another possibility is to install heat coils in a zig-zag pattern over the area above the eaves. This will heat the area and let the snow run off the roof. However, if the electricity goes out, or the coils are broken, the system won't work , but the ice dams still will.

Dear Home Work:

We are considering remodeling our kitchen, and have received tremendously varying prices. How do I know what a job should cost, and am I paying a fair price?

Tough question. Since each job is a one-of-a-kind product, and statistics can only
be viewed as generaliza¬tions. The figures we are providing are no more than rough guidelines, and actual prices will fluctuate depending on location, the materials you select for any given job, and the qualifications of your particular con-tractor. Size will count, and smaller- scale jobs will cost more per unit than high-volume ones. You'll nor¬mally do better on pricing when you add several small projects together rather than calling your contractor out several times for each project.
The kitchen and bath prices given here, from R.S. Means Interior Home Improvement Costs, 1994, are calculated for specific jobs and using specific products. As you sub¬stitute personal preferences, the bot¬tom lime will change.
The report, in full is available from the May/June, 95 issue of CONSUMERS DIGEST.
" Our aim in these comparisons is to stay in the real world of everyday life and everyday budgeting for most people. Consequently, there is no "High" comparison included, because estimating the cost of top-priced ren¬ovations can be nothing more than a wild guess. If you're willing to spend the money, you can easily pay $60,000 or more for just kitchen cab¬inets, over $10,000 for built-in kitchen appliances, or $7,000 for a bathroom sink." CONSUMERS DIGEST.

KITCHEN & BATH REMODELING ECONOMY REMODELING
Job Materials Costs Total
Island Kitchen $ 6,248 $ 5,133 $ 11,381
U-Shaped Kitchen 4,700 3,942 8,642
L-Shaped Kitchen 3,648 2,875 6,523
Master Bath 2,766 3,519 6,285
Half-bath 948 1,242 2,190

MID-PRICE REMODELING
Job Materials Costs Total
Island Kitchen $ 10,067 $ 7,291 $ 17,358
U-Shaped Kitchen 7,938 5,872 13,810
L-Shaped Kitchen 7,070 5,146 12,216
Master Bath 4,300 4,650 8,950
Half-Bath 1,804 1,778 3,582

In dealing with bids, CON¬SUMER'S DIGEST cautions, "the only way to get fully competitive bids is to shop the exact same list of products. Even that may not work since retailers might use different distribution channels and may them¬selves be paying different prices — especially if they don't regularly carry a given line."
" Consumers may go to four or five contractors for bids, but the pricing won't be the same. Pricing isn't just on products, it's on design as well. A more elaborate design would cost more than just putting cabinets on the wall. Uninsured contractors may be able to come in on the low side, but you get what you pay for, and you could be liable if there is a problem."
" You can get the lowest price but no service, the lowest price and no design expertise, the lowest price and have the job stretch out over six months.
" Before you make any decisions about hiring a contractor, check ref¬erences. Since it's realistic that problems will arise in every job, take the time to ask how the contractor handled those problems. And always, double check the status of your contractor's license by calling the California State License Board @ 1-800-321-CSLB (2752).

Dear Home Work:

We've recently purchased a home in Big Bear and want to make it look like a log cabin. We understand there is a popular siding called "Maltby" — is "Maltby" siding still available?

We spoke with Tom Core, Big Bear's foremost authority on valley history, who is very familiar with Guy Maltby. He told us Mr. Maltby came to Big Bear in the 1920's, and simply fell in love with our valley. After a few different ventures, Maltby opened our first lumber yard, in the vicinity of the current Liquor Junction.
As the valley grew, and the need for homes became apparent, Maltby got involved in the building business, and went on to build more than 500 homes and cabins. Most of these homes are covered in his trademark siding, and many of his originals still stand throughout the valley.
Since no actually milling takes place in Big Bear, Maltby siding was specially milled, but imported from down the hill. Today, our local lumberyards are able to duplicate the original siding for repairs and replacement purposes, with custom milling, but it is cost prohibitive to custom mill siding for an entire home.
Today, most local builders and remodelers trying to reproduce the "look of a rustic-type cabin or log cabin, lean towards the use of regular half-round logs, (mostly fir), which come to Big Bear from the Pacific Northwest areas. This siding is specially ordered on a per-job basis. Due to cost again, the siding is often limited to key visual areas of the home, rather than complete cov¬ering of the home, as in the days of Maltby.

Dear Home Work:

I've got an older, drafty cabin that needs some attention. Winters seem awfully cold. Air leaks from the windows, even through cracks in the walls. The doors leak a tremendous amount of air. Help!

In acquiring an older cabin, you've most probably captured a charm that is not available in some of our newer structures. But, we've come a long way with building procedures and new materials that are now standard procedure, that allow us to create a much more energy efficient home.
A few things you may consider to assist in creating your home as an air-tight unit - keeping your heat inside and the cold air outside.
Weather stripping - it's extremely important in our area, where winter temperatures may drop even below the teens. Basically, weather strips are thin, linear materials placed between doors AND windows, and their jambs to prevent air leakage. Weather strips seal operable joints, an should never be painted. Any good contractor can easily install the product, but it's also a simple do-it- yourself project that will help your drafty situation.
Windows - if yours are the old wooden, single pane type, you may want to consider replacement. BEAR CITY GLASS (585-2037) offers simple-to¬ install storm windows that fit inside the house, on your window sill, as well as traditional storm windows for the exterior of your home.
Window coverings - Ellie Ferguson, HAUS & HOME INTERIORS (866 2621) suggests new window coverings now available on the market can effectively decrease the transmission of heat or cold through old or new windows. A new cellular pleated shade design (honeycomb), available
through numerous manufacturers is an extremely efficient covering for our colder climate. Insulation - additional insulation can be blown in, or bats can be laid in the attic area as well as under the floor, depending on accessibility. With insulation, you create a higher "R-Value" (resistance to heat flow). Adding insulation is often needed in older cabins, and can be very helpful. Fireplace damper - if you don't use your fireplace much, or are a second homeowner, Rosie Hinojos, SW Gas, reminds you to close the damper to keep your warm air from escaping out the chimney.
Caulking - for obvious cracks and flaws in older siding and cabins - fill the holes with caulking or foam. There are many types of fillers avail¬able for different applications. Check with our local lumber yards for the right materials for you project.

From the archives of January/February 1996 Big Bear Magazine, © Big Bear Magazine, ABC Media and Promotions, Inc. All Rights Reserved.

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